Leopards up a tree, avoiding three lionesses.
Painted dogs, on the hunt for waterbuck.
A hot afternoon, even for leopards
07 October 2012
Simbambili - even more pictures
.
Leopards up a tree, avoiding three lionesses.
Painted dogs, on the hunt for waterbuck.
A hot afternoon, even for leopards
Leopards up a tree, avoiding three lionesses.Painted dogs, on the hunt for waterbuck.A hot afternoon, even for leopards
First lemurs_Lemur park_photos
Lemur Park- filling in time during delayed flight might as well see some lemurs.
Mumps' trusty slingshot. 
White rhino investing in its midden.
First impressions of Madagascar
Pictures to come separately
4/10/2012, en route between Antananarivo and Fort Dauphine, Madagscar
So far we've only seen Madagascar from the air and from in Antananarivo (the national capital of around 3 million), but a few things have caught the eye (and nose).
Paddy fields. We had no idea to expect these, yet every portion of watercourses (most of which are otherwise dry) have been terraced for rice crops.
Once the crop has been harvested, the remaining mud is packed into bricks of an ugly grey colour and stacked in the middle of the fields. These are then fired from within to cure the bricks, which lends a distinctive odour (probably not the reason Madagascar is sometimes known as the Isle of Aromas). Once dried the bricks are a pleasing salmon-pink, and Tana (as the city is affectionately known) thus has a rosy demeanour.
There are so many piles of bricks that the middle of a watercourse resembled, we fancied, an ancient civilisation gradually crumbling into nothingness.
The streets are a chaotic tangle of trucks, minibuses, ancient Peugots and Renaults, hand- and zebu-drawn carts piled high with unguessable cargo, bicycles and pedestrians with goods piled high on their heads (a basket full of 50 scrawny chickens does not make a great hat...glad we learned that lesson). Our driver, Patrique, astounded us by hitting nothing. Though there was a bit of a thud once, we're sure it wasn't a small child.
Businesses are small, and very much specialists. Chunks of meat, chicken and sausages hang outside ramshackle huts the size of your average (modest) garden shed. Others display selections of snacks, omnipresent advertisments for telcos & coke, PVC pipes, and so on. A layer of pinky-brown dust coats everything, recalling inland Australia after a dust storm.
Our guide, Jeff, asked us upon arrival whether we thought the local people looked more Asian or African. We weren't sure, though he tells us that Madagascan people have been described as "the most African looking Asians". This isn't a hard-and-fast rule though, and a great diversity abounds. Though our pale colouring does stand out.
Our first night was at Hotel Tana, about half a block from the presidential palace. Presumably one of the safest spots in town, though in 2009 when the coup d'etat occurred it may have been less so.
Possibly in recognition of that event, the restaurant we dined at was called Kudeta. Highly recommended, it was a bit like stepping back into France.
Aperitifs were called for, and the very-reasonable mojitos were an even more reasonable 5000Ar (equivalent to AU$2). Nibbles, including zebu skewers with a feisty sauce, whet our appetites. When we hit the dining table proper, things got even better.
Carpaccio of zebu, terrine of foie gras (du maison), crab, foie gras ravioli.....all were shared by the enthisiastic quartet, with a decent rose from Pays d'Oc.
Main courses stepped up the excitement. Pave of zebu, three noix of zebu, octopus risotto and local pork were all split into quarters and made their ways around the table. Yum.
Madagascar being, as it is, the source of renowned chocolate, Andrew felt obliged to order the selection of house chocolate specialities. One dessert between four was fine by this time, though we did supplement it with some house-prepared flavoured rums (ginger, banana, vanilla) for the promotion of digestion.
All of this came in at roughly AU$120.Bargain.
4/10/2012, en route between Antananarivo and Fort Dauphine, Madagscar
So far we've only seen Madagascar from the air and from in Antananarivo (the national capital of around 3 million), but a few things have caught the eye (and nose).
Paddy fields. We had no idea to expect these, yet every portion of watercourses (most of which are otherwise dry) have been terraced for rice crops.
Once the crop has been harvested, the remaining mud is packed into bricks of an ugly grey colour and stacked in the middle of the fields. These are then fired from within to cure the bricks, which lends a distinctive odour (probably not the reason Madagascar is sometimes known as the Isle of Aromas). Once dried the bricks are a pleasing salmon-pink, and Tana (as the city is affectionately known) thus has a rosy demeanour.
There are so many piles of bricks that the middle of a watercourse resembled, we fancied, an ancient civilisation gradually crumbling into nothingness.
The streets are a chaotic tangle of trucks, minibuses, ancient Peugots and Renaults, hand- and zebu-drawn carts piled high with unguessable cargo, bicycles and pedestrians with goods piled high on their heads (a basket full of 50 scrawny chickens does not make a great hat...glad we learned that lesson). Our driver, Patrique, astounded us by hitting nothing. Though there was a bit of a thud once, we're sure it wasn't a small child.
Businesses are small, and very much specialists. Chunks of meat, chicken and sausages hang outside ramshackle huts the size of your average (modest) garden shed. Others display selections of snacks, omnipresent advertisments for telcos & coke, PVC pipes, and so on. A layer of pinky-brown dust coats everything, recalling inland Australia after a dust storm.
Our guide, Jeff, asked us upon arrival whether we thought the local people looked more Asian or African. We weren't sure, though he tells us that Madagascan people have been described as "the most African looking Asians". This isn't a hard-and-fast rule though, and a great diversity abounds. Though our pale colouring does stand out.
Our first night was at Hotel Tana, about half a block from the presidential palace. Presumably one of the safest spots in town, though in 2009 when the coup d'etat occurred it may have been less so.
Possibly in recognition of that event, the restaurant we dined at was called Kudeta. Highly recommended, it was a bit like stepping back into France.
Aperitifs were called for, and the very-reasonable mojitos were an even more reasonable 5000Ar (equivalent to AU$2). Nibbles, including zebu skewers with a feisty sauce, whet our appetites. When we hit the dining table proper, things got even better.
Carpaccio of zebu, terrine of foie gras (du maison), crab, foie gras ravioli.....all were shared by the enthisiastic quartet, with a decent rose from Pays d'Oc.
Main courses stepped up the excitement. Pave of zebu, three noix of zebu, octopus risotto and local pork were all split into quarters and made their ways around the table. Yum.
Madagascar being, as it is, the source of renowned chocolate, Andrew felt obliged to order the selection of house chocolate specialities. One dessert between four was fine by this time, though we did supplement it with some house-prepared flavoured rums (ginger, banana, vanilla) for the promotion of digestion.
All of this came in at roughly AU$120.Bargain.
05 October 2012
Ten go to Pondoro
2/10/2012, Malule private reserve, South Africa
About two and a half hours up the road from Sabi Sand is the Balule private reserve that ajoins Kruger park. A forty minute teeth-rattling drive from the main gate gets you to Pondoro, which is reputed to be the cream of the crop of the lodges in that area. We had three nights to look forward to.
Our party of six swelled to ten as we met up with Neha (Sej's sister), her friend Prash, and Digby and Margie (Charlie's uncle and aunt). The banter cranked up to eleven, and we were away for surely the least-reverent safaris ever undertaken.
Our safari crew of Mark and Eric was a completely different flavour to Simbambili. We had the sense that Mark would drive around the bush, waiting for radioed notice of animal sightings. Periodically he'd let fly a radio burst of "Robbie-Robbie-Robbie" (the lodge's senior guide), or "Sam-Sam-Sam"/"Greg-Greg-Greg" (other local guides), and this triple callout was seized on by the peanut gallery (ie the ten of us).
Calls of jafi-jafi-jafi, wine-wine-wine, dinner-dinner-dinner were frequent, as well as our attempts at Afrikaans-accented "Robbie-Robbie-Robbie" (Prash won the prize for best accent, though it emerged that he'd been working on it for quite a few years). It got to the point when Neha outright asked Mark "so who's Sam-Sam-Sam?". To his credit, he eventually got into it ("pleasure-pleasure-pleasure").
Eric, our tracker, was nowhere near the calibre of Mumps, and things occasionally got a bit tense between him and Mark. Nevertheless, Eric got into the spirit of another of our traditions: the old "hands in the air" trick borrowed from rollercoasters. There were many watercourses to be descended, and up went hands from throughout the vehicle....and, occasionally, from Eric on his bonnet-mounted tracker's seat. Even Mark let go of the wheel on one or two occasions to join in. One can only wonder what the Germans/Americans/English/Chinese in other vehicles made of this.
The food was even better than Simbambili. Finally, we started to sample the local fare. Ostrich and impala made appearances, as did mielle-pap (a white maize derivative that we were later told needed to be eaten every five days at a minimum to maintain ones African-ness). We were treated to excellent service, though it must be noted that it was less personal than Simbambili. The breakfast buffet groaned under the weight of offerings, and each morning the menu of hot offerings changed. The hunter's omelette, egg & bacon mini-pizza and beans with olives and mushroom were highlights. Small wonder that after a 4.45am wakeup call, safari and breakfast Andrew opted out of morning safari walks following breakfast.
We never scoped out the "comprehensive wine list", but selections from the standard list proved excellent. Pinotage again, pinot noirs (a little thin, though one smelled of bacon), a very good chardonnay with the toasty notes so craved by Tracey and Henry, syrah of quality, chenin blanc at lunch and, for the leavetaking breakfast, some rather decent blanc-de-blancs in the "cap du classique" style. Pretty much everything was from the Stellenbosch region, which seems synonymous with South African wine. We envy the others who were off to that area subsequently. We also continued our tradition of shots of Amarula in our morning game drive coffee stop.
Somehow, in between fixing punctures, being shown how to harvest naturally-occurring toilet paper (although the lesson was clearly not completely taken in, as Mark observed that a sample shown by someone would "tear your anus" - you have to hear this said with an Afrikaans accent to get the humour), bagging one another in true Australian style, critiquing each others' tree impersonation (apparently "jazz hands" don't look much like foliage) and the ongoing joke duel between Charlie, Digby, Tracey and Henry (others joined in at times, but found it hard to plumb the scatalogical depths managed by the Foul Four), we we even managed to see some animals.
The range was extraordinary, surpassing in variety what we'd seen at Simbambili. Fewer birds, and only one leopard, but on two occasions we saw four of the "big five" on a single safari. Both black and white rhinos treated us to their company, a close encounter with a young bull elphant at dusk illustrated the perils of the bush by night, and a local band of six lion brothers meant that sightings of males were more often than not of several at once.
Safari 1
Large male leopard, giraffe, elephant at dusk, water buck
Safari 2
Water buck, kudu, giraffe, male lion, wildebeest, herd of Cape buffalo
Safari 3
Giraffe, White rhino, puncture
Safari 4
2 male lions, elephant, cape buffalo, black rhino, giraffes, puncture,
Monkeys raid hen,sej
Safari 5
5 male lions, zebras, giraffes, tree squirrels
We skipped one of our afternoon safaris to go to Maholoholo Rehabilitation Centre...not for alcoholics or drug users as our host advised; though he did mention someone drunk turned up injured one day following a brawl, they did treat his injuries before sending him back into the wild :-)
Maholoholo takes in injured wildlife, treating those that can be and returning them to reserve. Those animals that can't be released for various reasons (eg change of scent such that their former pride won't recognise them as a friend) are kept at the centre. We were first shown the feeding of the wild painted dogs. Digby was selected to wheel the impala carcus into the cages with the protection of a guide holding a stick (not a slingshot this time). The dogs tore it to pieces in seconds in a feeding frenzy whilst making strange chuckling noises.
Baby white and black rhino, cleaver honey badger, lions, leopards, no spiky haired baby cheetahs due to potentail TB. Feeding vultures. Food cages.
[pictures to come, bandwidth poor]
About two and a half hours up the road from Sabi Sand is the Balule private reserve that ajoins Kruger park. A forty minute teeth-rattling drive from the main gate gets you to Pondoro, which is reputed to be the cream of the crop of the lodges in that area. We had three nights to look forward to.
Our party of six swelled to ten as we met up with Neha (Sej's sister), her friend Prash, and Digby and Margie (Charlie's uncle and aunt). The banter cranked up to eleven, and we were away for surely the least-reverent safaris ever undertaken.
Our safari crew of Mark and Eric was a completely different flavour to Simbambili. We had the sense that Mark would drive around the bush, waiting for radioed notice of animal sightings. Periodically he'd let fly a radio burst of "Robbie-Robbie-Robbie" (the lodge's senior guide), or "Sam-Sam-Sam"/"Greg-Greg-Greg" (other local guides), and this triple callout was seized on by the peanut gallery (ie the ten of us).
Calls of jafi-jafi-jafi, wine-wine-wine, dinner-dinner-dinner were frequent, as well as our attempts at Afrikaans-accented "Robbie-Robbie-Robbie" (Prash won the prize for best accent, though it emerged that he'd been working on it for quite a few years). It got to the point when Neha outright asked Mark "so who's Sam-Sam-Sam?". To his credit, he eventually got into it ("pleasure-pleasure-pleasure").
Eric, our tracker, was nowhere near the calibre of Mumps, and things occasionally got a bit tense between him and Mark. Nevertheless, Eric got into the spirit of another of our traditions: the old "hands in the air" trick borrowed from rollercoasters. There were many watercourses to be descended, and up went hands from throughout the vehicle....and, occasionally, from Eric on his bonnet-mounted tracker's seat. Even Mark let go of the wheel on one or two occasions to join in. One can only wonder what the Germans/Americans/English/Chinese in other vehicles made of this.
The food was even better than Simbambili. Finally, we started to sample the local fare. Ostrich and impala made appearances, as did mielle-pap (a white maize derivative that we were later told needed to be eaten every five days at a minimum to maintain ones African-ness). We were treated to excellent service, though it must be noted that it was less personal than Simbambili. The breakfast buffet groaned under the weight of offerings, and each morning the menu of hot offerings changed. The hunter's omelette, egg & bacon mini-pizza and beans with olives and mushroom were highlights. Small wonder that after a 4.45am wakeup call, safari and breakfast Andrew opted out of morning safari walks following breakfast.
We never scoped out the "comprehensive wine list", but selections from the standard list proved excellent. Pinotage again, pinot noirs (a little thin, though one smelled of bacon), a very good chardonnay with the toasty notes so craved by Tracey and Henry, syrah of quality, chenin blanc at lunch and, for the leavetaking breakfast, some rather decent blanc-de-blancs in the "cap du classique" style. Pretty much everything was from the Stellenbosch region, which seems synonymous with South African wine. We envy the others who were off to that area subsequently. We also continued our tradition of shots of Amarula in our morning game drive coffee stop.
Somehow, in between fixing punctures, being shown how to harvest naturally-occurring toilet paper (although the lesson was clearly not completely taken in, as Mark observed that a sample shown by someone would "tear your anus" - you have to hear this said with an Afrikaans accent to get the humour), bagging one another in true Australian style, critiquing each others' tree impersonation (apparently "jazz hands" don't look much like foliage) and the ongoing joke duel between Charlie, Digby, Tracey and Henry (others joined in at times, but found it hard to plumb the scatalogical depths managed by the Foul Four), we we even managed to see some animals.
The range was extraordinary, surpassing in variety what we'd seen at Simbambili. Fewer birds, and only one leopard, but on two occasions we saw four of the "big five" on a single safari. Both black and white rhinos treated us to their company, a close encounter with a young bull elphant at dusk illustrated the perils of the bush by night, and a local band of six lion brothers meant that sightings of males were more often than not of several at once.
Safari 1
Large male leopard, giraffe, elephant at dusk, water buck
Safari 2
Water buck, kudu, giraffe, male lion, wildebeest, herd of Cape buffalo
Safari 3
Giraffe, White rhino, puncture
Safari 4
2 male lions, elephant, cape buffalo, black rhino, giraffes, puncture,
Monkeys raid hen,sej
Safari 5
5 male lions, zebras, giraffes, tree squirrels
We skipped one of our afternoon safaris to go to Maholoholo Rehabilitation Centre...not for alcoholics or drug users as our host advised; though he did mention someone drunk turned up injured one day following a brawl, they did treat his injuries before sending him back into the wild :-)
Maholoholo takes in injured wildlife, treating those that can be and returning them to reserve. Those animals that can't be released for various reasons (eg change of scent such that their former pride won't recognise them as a friend) are kept at the centre. We were first shown the feeding of the wild painted dogs. Digby was selected to wheel the impala carcus into the cages with the protection of a guide holding a stick (not a slingshot this time). The dogs tore it to pieces in seconds in a feeding frenzy whilst making strange chuckling noises.
Baby white and black rhino, cleaver honey badger, lions, leopards, no spiky haired baby cheetahs due to potentail TB. Feeding vultures. Food cages.
[pictures to come, bandwidth poor]
02 October 2012
Simbambili safaris
Simbambili Lodge treated us to our first classic safaris and we loved every single minute of it, in spite of the 5am starts.
Our party grew as we joined up with Sej and Henry (Andrew's cousin), and the banter ratcheted up acccordingly. Wonderful to share the experiences - and they were utterly worth sharing.
Simbambili itself is pretty damn luxurious - all suites boasting chilly plunge pools (perfect for the mid 30 degree days), outdoor day beds overlooking the african plains and so on, the lodge itself being a spacious, airy haven with excellent food and wine, and all on a small scale (never more than 16 guests at one time). We were treated to exceptional, personal hospitality and felt more like invited guests than paying customers. Whether Alison in front of house, Locks and Reinas keeping our glasses topped up, Liam piloting us through the bush and providing ongoing education and passion, or Mumps tracking down the most elusive game and impressing us both with his humour and even more so his slingshot (his personal line of defence against the world's most dangerous predators - seriously).
Safari 1 - afternoon
We warmed up with giraffe, waterbuck and impala (aka JAFI, for Just Another ...Flaming... Impala). Liam pushed the truck up a watercourse in search of leopard, and he and Mumps hopped off (with both rifle and slingshot). They told us they were going to search for the cats, and if they weren't back in 10 minutes the lodge was thataway.
Literally half a step later, they said "there they are", and five metres away there they were indeed. Not only were they so close, but were also very much in the mood. We showed no sense of decorum and stuck around to watch them mate.
We returned to them after sundowners (a very fine safari tradition) and drama played out. Hyenas turned up in the hope of scrounging a feed. There was quite the standoff between one and the male leopard. Pretty clearly Mr L was put out at having his mating time interrupted (hard to do, as it lasts about two seconds, though is repeated every 10-15 minutes for up to three days). However, the risk of injury meant that actually fighting the hyena was out of the question, so up a tree he and Ms L went. It just happened to be the tree we were under.
So there we were: ten humans in an open vehicle, with two leopards just over our heads. Things got a little tense when Ms L advanced out onto a brach, bringing her to maybe two metres from Andrew's now-quite-nervous head. It really is astonishing how close you get to the animals, and how easily you relax in their company.
Happily, the hyenas took off. The leopards got out of the tree, and back into action. We repaired back to the lodge for dinner - a spectacular affair in the Big Boma, featuring some lovely oxtail (but sadly no local specialities).
The pattern of the next two days had been set. Rise early, safari (including a stop for coffee with a tot of Amarula), return for sizable breakfast, heavy session of lolling/lazing/lounging, sizable lunch, more arduous lolling/napping/wallowing, safari at 4pm (including sundowners while watching consistently amazing African sunsets), outrageously large dinner, then off to sleep before 10pm. Every day is different, and you wouldn't want to miss a moment.
Safari 2 - morning
Just when we believe it couldn't get any better, it does. On our 5am safari we come across 3 lionesses (sisters). They appeared slightly distressed which we discovered was due to their breakfast being too close to the camp. Our tracker bravely attached a chain to the back of the vehicle with the lions watching intently, that chain is then attched to the leg of their "breakfast" - a half eaten water buck. We drag the water buck away from the camp with lions in tow, it certainly give a new meaning to the meaning of fast food delivery. Mumps pull out his knife and offered for us to share.
We also saw buffalo, hyenas, tortoise, impala, waterbuck, bushbuck, deiker, kudu, nyala.
Safai 3 - afternoon
Saw the leopards again... still mating. We stopped for our sundowners while watching hippos playing in a waterhole. Also saw our first bush baby (google it, super cute) and slender mongoose.
Safari 4 - morning
While tracking some lion prints we saw a swarm of baboons coming out of a tree. They were soon forgotten when nearby we found the 3 lionesses again hanging out by a waterhole. If that wasn't thrilling enough we then noticed our mating leopard pair sitting in the tree above them, not looking too pleased about having their mating interupted. It was a bit of a surprise when a third leopard came out of the brush and joined them up the tree. Eventually the lions got bored of waiting for the leopards to come down and they wandered off. The leopards disappeared shortly after, probably to continue their mating.
We also came across a 2.5 tonne white rhino that came within metres of our vehicle, marked it territory and moved on. Then we trached down some wild painted dogs which are apparenly extremely rare, there were 14 in the pack, 6 of them puppies. They catch their prey by their superior stamina, once it tires they rip the hunted animal to shreds in minutes, thankfully we didn't stay around long enough for this.
Our time at Simbambili was amazing and we're already planning a return trip.
Our party grew as we joined up with Sej and Henry (Andrew's cousin), and the banter ratcheted up acccordingly. Wonderful to share the experiences - and they were utterly worth sharing.
Simbambili itself is pretty damn luxurious - all suites boasting chilly plunge pools (perfect for the mid 30 degree days), outdoor day beds overlooking the african plains and so on, the lodge itself being a spacious, airy haven with excellent food and wine, and all on a small scale (never more than 16 guests at one time). We were treated to exceptional, personal hospitality and felt more like invited guests than paying customers. Whether Alison in front of house, Locks and Reinas keeping our glasses topped up, Liam piloting us through the bush and providing ongoing education and passion, or Mumps tracking down the most elusive game and impressing us both with his humour and even more so his slingshot (his personal line of defence against the world's most dangerous predators - seriously).
Safari 1 - afternoon
We warmed up with giraffe, waterbuck and impala (aka JAFI, for Just Another ...Flaming... Impala). Liam pushed the truck up a watercourse in search of leopard, and he and Mumps hopped off (with both rifle and slingshot). They told us they were going to search for the cats, and if they weren't back in 10 minutes the lodge was thataway.
Literally half a step later, they said "there they are", and five metres away there they were indeed. Not only were they so close, but were also very much in the mood. We showed no sense of decorum and stuck around to watch them mate.
We returned to them after sundowners (a very fine safari tradition) and drama played out. Hyenas turned up in the hope of scrounging a feed. There was quite the standoff between one and the male leopard. Pretty clearly Mr L was put out at having his mating time interrupted (hard to do, as it lasts about two seconds, though is repeated every 10-15 minutes for up to three days). However, the risk of injury meant that actually fighting the hyena was out of the question, so up a tree he and Ms L went. It just happened to be the tree we were under.
So there we were: ten humans in an open vehicle, with two leopards just over our heads. Things got a little tense when Ms L advanced out onto a brach, bringing her to maybe two metres from Andrew's now-quite-nervous head. It really is astonishing how close you get to the animals, and how easily you relax in their company.
Happily, the hyenas took off. The leopards got out of the tree, and back into action. We repaired back to the lodge for dinner - a spectacular affair in the Big Boma, featuring some lovely oxtail (but sadly no local specialities).
The pattern of the next two days had been set. Rise early, safari (including a stop for coffee with a tot of Amarula), return for sizable breakfast, heavy session of lolling/lazing/lounging, sizable lunch, more arduous lolling/napping/wallowing, safari at 4pm (including sundowners while watching consistently amazing African sunsets), outrageously large dinner, then off to sleep before 10pm. Every day is different, and you wouldn't want to miss a moment.
Safari 2 - morning
Just when we believe it couldn't get any better, it does. On our 5am safari we come across 3 lionesses (sisters). They appeared slightly distressed which we discovered was due to their breakfast being too close to the camp. Our tracker bravely attached a chain to the back of the vehicle with the lions watching intently, that chain is then attched to the leg of their "breakfast" - a half eaten water buck. We drag the water buck away from the camp with lions in tow, it certainly give a new meaning to the meaning of fast food delivery. Mumps pull out his knife and offered for us to share.
We also saw buffalo, hyenas, tortoise, impala, waterbuck, bushbuck, deiker, kudu, nyala.
Safai 3 - afternoon
Saw the leopards again... still mating. We stopped for our sundowners while watching hippos playing in a waterhole. Also saw our first bush baby (google it, super cute) and slender mongoose.
Safari 4 - morning
While tracking some lion prints we saw a swarm of baboons coming out of a tree. They were soon forgotten when nearby we found the 3 lionesses again hanging out by a waterhole. If that wasn't thrilling enough we then noticed our mating leopard pair sitting in the tree above them, not looking too pleased about having their mating interupted. It was a bit of a surprise when a third leopard came out of the brush and joined them up the tree. Eventually the lions got bored of waiting for the leopards to come down and they wandered off. The leopards disappeared shortly after, probably to continue their mating.
We also came across a 2.5 tonne white rhino that came within metres of our vehicle, marked it territory and moved on. Then we trached down some wild painted dogs which are apparenly extremely rare, there were 14 in the pack, 6 of them puppies. They catch their prey by their superior stamina, once it tires they rip the hunted animal to shreds in minutes, thankfully we didn't stay around long enough for this.Our time at Simbambili was amazing and we're already planning a return trip.
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