The fabled Loire valley is full of gorgeous chateaux that are the legacy of some very very rich people, most of whom got their come-uppance during the French Revolution. We headed for the west end (we plan to get to the east end in a month or so).
These are some seriously impressive piles indeed. Whether your taste runs to wet moats (Plessis-Bourre), classic gardens (Villandry) or fortified castles (such as Anjou, with a remarkable mix of coloured stone in it's pepperpot towers) it's all there. Tracey was in a very happy place, as pretty after pretty popped into view.
Loire wines also get a guernsey, with the cremant de Loire a particular favorite. As we'd found in Burgundy, great sparkling wine doesn't have to originate in Champagne. Try the Gratien & Meyer winery near Saumur: great wines and an unforgettable host (Dennis) of the most flamboyant stripe.
It's sadly difficult to talk up Loire cuisine, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, and very favourably, we stayed at a place (Les Peupliers) where dinner was prepared and served every night by the owner/chef Mike. Secondly, lunches failed to deliver. A Thai meal (yes we know, wrong place - but we were thwarted by our preferred choice being closed for a wedding) where we asked for extra chilli resulted in a bottle of Tabasco; Tours turned out to be a grim, dirty old town that was visibly suffering the effects of a Saturday night. Food options were clearly of the tourist trap variety, and the bowls of pasta that we settled for were indicative of why we just normally don't. Bottom line: don't tour in Tours, and don't bother eating out in the western Loire Valley.
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