Bath time at Elephant Bay

We'd been doing it tough all morning, wearing ourselves out lolling, lounging and lying around. The wind was up but the wildlife wasn't, which was starting to disappoint. Right about then the stage manager that Tracey is sure lurks up on the riverbank cued the elephants.

Down came literally twenty, including two very young ones, at a fair clip and went straight for the water. Hard to say if cooling down or drinking was the priority, but they fanned out, pretty much took over the beach and saw off a pod of hippos

One of the little guys got right into the mood and gallumphed along through the shallows, uttering some damn cute yelps of what we figure must have been delight.

Leaving the houseboat is a sad moment, because it's far exceeded our expectations. We've been very well cared for by the crew, it's all been very comfortable (all right, the bed was a little hard but who cares in this context?) and we've gotten right up to many animals. Every so often we've spotted a safari vehicle and not once envied their occupants the dust, bouncing around and lack of armchairs and gin & tonic :) Surely safari by boat is the most civilised way to see the wild.

Kisane to Elephant Bay

24/9/2012, Chobe River

Having crossed several borders, from Zambia, Botswana to Namibia, several vehicles and boats later we reach the Chobe Delta. Dozens of elephants. Scores, even. Hundreds, perhaps. We sit in our armchairs drinking a cool glass of wine/beer, on the upper deck of the Ichobezi houseboat, cruising the waters of Elephant Bay.

The number of animals astounds us. A few hours ago we were excited by the sight of a single elephant far in the distance. Now entire herds cover the riverside: bulls, cows, juveniles and babies, all grazing in peace in the 38C afternoon heat. We're told that Chobe is overpopulated with elephants, but no complaints from us.

Alongside them are pods upon pods of hippos, warthogs, herds of impala, clusters of sable and water buffalo, interspersed with cranes, waterfowl, kingfishers and other birds we don't (yet) recognise.

It's tough. Lunch was a delicious hake with salad (crisp vegetables being themselves a delight), and the crew have a sixth sense for the water, beer or wine that needs topping up.

As the afternoon lengthened we ventured out for a sundowner boat trip, on which we got up close and personal with elephants, hippos and crocs, including one that, according to Charlie, "had murder in his eyes" and elicited what sounded like a yelp of fright. No shame in that; we've had disproportionate reactions to less fearsome critters.

Dinner began with mushrooms topped with mozarella with a lovely tomato sauce, progressed to marvellously tender pork in a pleasingly piquant peppery sauce, following which the densely chocolatey brownies were too challenging for some. As we grazed the signature sound of lion reberberated through the dark. Can't wait to see those!.