25 July 2010

Crossing the Loire into Brittany -

On our way to Brittany we stayed for a night of decadence at Chateau La Flocilliere.  We were lucky enough to get an upgrade to a suite.  This was the kind of chateau we'd generally be happy just to see a tourist attraction, getting a chance to stay there was fabulous.    Extensive gardens for an evening stroll, plush dressing gowns, antique furniture, even breakfast with the viscount and viscountess.  Unfortunately not a lifestyle we'll be able to become accustomed to.

Continuing on into Brittany we stopped at Nantes, which appears to be attempting to substantially reinvent itself now that its glory era of docks and shipbuilding is well and truly at an end. Probably just as well, as the newer bits are far more attractive than the untouched older parts. In an old shipping warehouse we discovered the magical word of  "Les Machines de l'Ile".  This place has to be seen to be believed.  It's full of hand maneuvered machines for which the only purpose is intrigue, beauty and fascination. Think a steampunk version of Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang and you're partway there.  The first machine we see is The Great Elephant who sits (though not for long) at the entrance.  The elephant is literally larger than life, standing at 12 metres tall.  The photos will describe it better than we possibly can but it walks around the outside of the building, occasionally spraying children with its swaying trunk.

The designers vivid imagination take inspiration mostly from the sea and sky including a dragon, fish, squid, turtle.  You also get an opportunity to look over the vast workshop with there new masterpieces in progress.

Nantes was also a very welcome return to seafood. While inland we'd denied ourselves, reasoning that the best and freshest is by the coast. We were not to be disappointed. There's an old brasserie named "La Cigale" that's an institution in the town: wonderful deco/belle-epoque decor......and the most outstanding (yes, really outstanding) seafood. We took the plunge, were introduced to our homard (Brittany lobster) and were treated to superb oysters, marvellous bulots (spiral-shaped molluscs) and so on. Definitely on our recommended list!



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