24/9/2012, Chobe River
Having crossed several borders, from Zambia, Botswana to Namibia, several vehicles and boats later we reach the Chobe Delta. Dozens of elephants. Scores, even. Hundreds, perhaps. We sit in our armchairs drinking a cool glass of wine/beer, on the upper deck of the Ichobezi houseboat, cruising the waters of Elephant Bay.
The number of animals astounds us. A few hours ago we were excited by the sight of a single elephant far in the distance. Now entire herds cover the riverside: bulls, cows, juveniles and babies, all grazing in peace in the 38C afternoon heat. We're told that Chobe is overpopulated with elephants, but no complaints from us.
Alongside them are pods upon pods of hippos, warthogs, herds of impala, clusters of sable and water buffalo, interspersed with cranes, waterfowl, kingfishers and other birds we don't (yet) recognise.
It's tough. Lunch was a delicious hake with salad (crisp vegetables being themselves a delight), and the crew have a sixth sense for the water, beer or wine that needs topping up.
As the afternoon lengthened we ventured out for a sundowner boat trip, on which we got up close and personal with elephants, hippos and crocs, including one that, according to Charlie, "had murder in his eyes" and elicited what sounded like a yelp of fright. No shame in that; we've had disproportionate reactions to less fearsome critters.
Dinner began with mushrooms topped with mozarella with a lovely tomato sauce, progressed to marvellously tender pork in a pleasingly piquant peppery sauce, following which the densely chocolatey brownies were too challenging for some. As we grazed the signature sound of lion reberberated through the dark. Can't wait to see those!.
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