Cesky Krumlov

"Old Tower", Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Krumlov (or "Crusty", as it's affectionately known to us) is a charming, well-preserved medieval village sheltered in the embrace of a sweeping river arc. Cobbled streets and lanes wend their ways past facades decked out in elaborate stencils and painting.

It's overseen by an impressive old castle featuring an ornate tower that underwent beautification in the Renaissance to transform functional Gothic architecture into an almost-Eastern ornament, a moat containing bears (poor things - look like they deserve more space) and, far worse, on some of the floors (rugs) inside the castle. For a dynasty that was named after bears and claims them as their emblem they haven't really worked out humaneness. The castle also features a fabulous labyrinth like cellar space underneath which was hosting some pretty bizarre art.

• A "pheasant feast" at the tavern of Two Marys (Tracey suggests that based on the portion sizes, it was actually only One Mary that had overindulged). Great views out over the town's inner river and old church as the full moon rose. Pheasant was a little dry, but a feast it was. Glad we don't feast every day, or they'd be calling it the tavern of Four Foodivores :)
• Local music in the main square at the commencement of the Wenceslas Celebrations (preceded by speeches that despite being translated into two other languages - German and Slovenian - we didn't understand a word of).
• Mead - an unexpected and yummy local drop. cinnamon at the Two Marys; almond at Barbakan that was like liquid marzipan
• Generous (aka insane) serves of hearty simple food - pork knee, goulash, a local specialty featuring too much meat and three times as much stodge in various forms, grilled perch-pike
• Gorgeous deciduous leaf colour - rather like being in an Autumnal Park - as the splendid sunshine shone down (well, after the early morning mist had been burned off).
• Visiting the Marionette Museum. Fabulous faces, expressions, styles, costumes and so on. Apparently the Czechs have used marionettes as home entertainment for years (well, at least until TV became available).
• and....,

  

  View of the village from the Old Tower

  
  of course....watching the (first, drawn) 2010 Grand Final over the internet at 6.30am, visiting friends back home at Slabathon via the miracle of videocall, slumping back in relieved shock at the drawn result....while Tracey sipped her 0% lemon soft drink because of the Czech 0.00% driving laws (we were off to Praha within 20 minutes of the game ending).

Serious toys...the marionette museum

4th Quarter, Grand Final #1, Cesky Krumlov (note tension!)

One of the local residents

Midge Ure had no taste: it means something to us (oh Vienna)

Palmenhaus - restaurant inside

WW2 flak tower, just across the street

We departed the South Western corner of Austria, eager to return one day, and headed to the other side of the country, Vienna. As with the lyrics of Ultravox "means nothing to me, Oh Vienna", we knew little about Vienna before our arrival. Our fears of driving into a large city were quickly allayed, the traffic was ordered and minimal. As we were to discover the public transport system in Vienna is so efficient, cheap and regular (rivaling Paris), why would anyone drive? So we parked Pierre in a Park& Ride for a pittance of €3 per day. The apartment we had booked for our two nights (we know - scandalously short, but this was only meant to be a taster), like everything in Austria, far exceeded expectations.  It was beautifully appointed and spacious, with a fully equipped kitchen, washing machine (we were down to our last pairs of underwear), WiFi included and a very helpful hostess who went above and beyond to make our stay perfect (including leaving a bottle of wine and other nibbles). We'd highly recommend this apartment to anyone visiting Vienna.  The aspect from our 3rd floor windows were views to large park containing WW2 flak towers... history is palpable and inescapable. Flak towers were used for the air defense of Vienna and also as air raid shelters for thousands of citizens. Seems a bit strange that they've not been demolished, but given their stark contrast to the pleasant park surrounds it makes a certain amount of sense in terms of ensuring that the city's history isn't forgotten.

Wandering the quiet streets in gorgeous autumn sunlight, checking out the impressive remnants of the Hapsburg empire and watching the iconic red and white trams trundle pass, we felt like we were in a John Le Carré novel. The architecture went from the historic to ultra-modern creations. Adding to the ambiance of Vienna is a prevalence of art - often sculpture - throughout the city and a large proportion of the city is parkland.

Austrian parliament (obviously a very serious building)

Vienna is also the home of Hundertwasser, one of our favourite artists. We visited his gallery at Kunst Haus, the building itself is representative of his art with organic lines and vivid colour.  We also saw two other buildings designed by him, Hundertwasserhaus which is apartments and office space and the incinerator.  Hundertwasser was commissioned to turn a rather unattractive working city incinerator into a piece of art that is a highlight for tourists while still being used for its practical purpose.

It wouldn't be a Foodivore blog without mentioning the food.  We had great meal at Kuckuck including a gooseliver creme brulee (mmmmm). Crispy pork enveloped in a gnocchi-like dough (super smooth mashed potato) plus an unusually seasoned cabbage dish that offered excellent textural contrast. Veal minced and wrapped in a superfine cabbage membrane with a forest mushroom sauce, and noteworthily great boiled potatoes. the lambiest of lamb hip (unusual cut - we think it was probably loin) cooked perfectly rare, and served with a rosemary gravy.

We also had lunch at Palmenhaus which is a large glass house in one of the many Vienna parks. We had a delicious goat's cheese with barbecued capsicum and walnut oil and spiced almonds; crostini of venision, rare, with redcurrants;and, duck breast with cardamom, passionfruit sauce and beetroot.

We also discovered a good Viennese wine - a red (Zweigelt - it was developed specifically for Austrian climate) full of fruit (unusually so - 2007 was apparently excellent ripening conditions) were drinking liquid passionfruit.

Austria was one of the locations we almost didn't include on our itinerary (you all must admit we did set an ambitious agenda) but it ended up being one of our favourite locations so far and one we will certainly return to for longer, it has the beauty of Switzerland without the cost, the culture of Paris without the hordes, it's cleaner and more orderly than Italy and Spain, better roads with good signage, friendly quirky people who all seem to speak surprisingly good English. It also had some of the best food we're experienced throughout the trip and we were lucky to have perfect weather the entire time, though I'm sure it's not always this way. One question that did remain unanswered as we left Austria was were did they get the money to provide such good infrastructure when we could see no obvious signs of industry or underclass citizens potentially from high taxation.

Hundertwasserhaus

Incinerator by Hundertwasser: fusion of art and function exemplified

No kangaroos in Austria

Werfen castle: a standout in the dozens we've seen

Crossing the border from Italy, which we had loved, into unknown Austria brought many unexpected changes. Of course, within the first ten minutes we knew it was going to be good as we'd already seen two donkeys (everything is improved by a donkey).

Krimml Falls, with bronzed ibex friend

• We found a country that takes beauty seriously enough that their hydro power station building had window boxes full of geraniums.
• Our hotel welcomed us calmly, sincerely and efficiently. The shambolic performance the night before in Dobbiaco was put firmly into perspective.  We could even get internet in our room without having to stand in the corner of the room on one leg while while humming the theme song to Mash ;-)
• Church spires suddenly changed and sported flower-like caps. Dotted every few kilometres, acting as beacons to the communities nestled around them.
• Roads were suddenly flat, well-made and sported speed signs (hard to say if those are extinct or just unknown in Italy).
• We found the people quirky - something for which they're not famous. All manner of whimsical wood sculpture adorns the land (we think that Austrians learn to whittle in the cradle), whether it be wicker cows on a roundabout or strange hairy-biker creations outside hotels. Even the road signs in the country are made from wood, though this changes the closer you get to Vienna. The guy who showed us around the ice caves (more on this later) had rapid machine-gun delivery, punctuated with dry and/or dark jokes delivered totally deadpan. For instance "watch your head as you pass under this rock...or not, it's up to you"
• A Sunday afternoon glimpse of a pair of old men sitting outside in Tyrolean hats, smoking their alpine pipes and just watching the view.



Krimml Falls (L) and Andrew (R)

• A t-shirt stating "No kangaroos in Austria". When a waiter on our second night learned we were Australians he was very keen to let us know that this is one of the unofficial mottos of Austria. We'd never considered that the mistaken identity thing cut the other way. Perhaps we should print shirts back home saying "no marmots in Australia".

Addressing confusion, Austrian-style

The south western parts of Austria where we stayed for two nights was breathtaking.  It had only been a short drive from Italy (through a very long tunnel) so we had much of two days to explore and this is one of the few locations we felt we were not spending anywhere near enough time and will need to return in the future.  We stopped for our first Austrian meal in Werfen, a beautiful town at the base of the Austrian mountains with a spectacular castle on the hill.  It was here we discovered the Austrians aren't shy about there serving sizes, even after almost 6 months of training we left enough on our plates to feed a small African nation.

The yawning maw of the Eisriesenwelt

That afternoon we walked off a fraction of lunch at Krimml falls, the longest waterfall in Europe (5th in the world).  Standing at the base with tons of water crashing downhill and mist dampening all that surrounds it, it was easy to see why it attracted the bus loads of other tourists.  Having seen the longest waterfall, we added to our list of world beaters by visiting Eisriesenwelt - the biggest ice caves in the world, 1600m above sea level, 1400 steps up and down within the cool cave (0 degrees) to marvel at natural ice sculptures (eg polar bear, elephant). Some crazy guy actually climbed up from the valley back in 1880 and discovered them....good for us, but what drives you to that kind of climb in the first place? Happily these days there's even a bar/restaurant at the end of it....bless the Austrians.

"Polar bear" in Eisriesenwelt

Not been satisfied merely with the longest and biggest, we then drove along Grossglocken pass - the highest mountain road in Austria, glorious sunshine lighting up the awesome peaks on all sides as Pierre took us up to 2571m.  We put the roof down and cruised through the mountain pass, where snow sits all year round.  We saw an ibex grazing by the side of the road in its natural habitat and also watched with enchantment as happy chubby little marmots were getting on with life on the hillside only metres from us (no doubt they need all the weight for winter and that when spring comes they'll be far far thinner...perhaps that's why the Austrian meals were so humongous, there fattening up for winter also).

We were surprised by the quality of food even if the serves are a little over proportioned.  We had some beautiful air-dried deer and deer escalope with elderflower gravy and redcurrant crepe.  The kalbsleber (calves liver) in a dark, creamy mushroom sauce was also a highlight.

Eisriesenwelt: fantastic natural ice sculptures

Marmot!

Pierre and Andrew, way up high

Pierre and Tracey, on the way up

Even in the snow, it's top-down all the way

Under the Tuscan Sun

Early evening by the pool

Doing it tough

Entertaining guests at the villa

A while back we were sitting in Hobart with some friends with whom we have a wine group. After a few wines we joked (as one does after a few wines) about all meeting up for a wine week in Tuscany. Next thing we know, we've hired a 6 bedroom villa amongst the olive groves and vineyards of a village called Campogialli (about 40 minutes from Florence) for 12 of us (including 4 under wine drinking age).   We woke on the morning our of Tuscan rendezvous at 4.45am in Lyon having now obtained legal right to remain in Europe. We flew back to Roma, collected Pierrot, obtained a replacement ticket for the carpark (easier than you'd think, but still hard early in the morning in another language...the replacement ticket being required due to Tracey finally cleaning out her bag...not wise at 4.45am) and headed up the Autostrade to Campogialli, our home for the next week, Villa Nava, awaited us. Now you might be thinking to yourself "a villa in Tuscany sounds all right - pretty damn relaxing in fact". If you are, you're absolutely correct. While we were being greeted by our non-English speaking hostess Gabriella (a quintessential little nonna). Kirsten, Paul, Joshua, Ashley and Alyssa all arrived. A plunge in the pool and a lazy pasta/salad dinner preceded further arrivals: Annemiek, Paul, Billie, Joke and George. With a full complement, we all settled in to the serious business of relaxing.
So what do you do in Tuscany for a week? The answer depends on who you are, of course. You could....

• Visit Assissi. Wander through the old town with Lhasa-like monastery. Savour a good lunch overlooking the main square, including stew of wild boar (cinghiale) and truffle omelette (it was truffle season). Witness a middle-aged battleaxe of a woman cursing and shaking her fist at nun (points to the nun, who remained serene).
• Drop in to the market of Firenze, although it's insane driving there, and goggle at the fabulous range of mushrooms for sale.
• Loll by the pool under beaming Tuscan sun, sipping prosecco or champagne.
• Cook up good family meals for the 10-12 of us and dine at long tables scarred by the knives of countless generations. The menu included saffron seafood risotto, puttanesca, rosemary roasted chicken, salads full of vivid colour and crunch, a simple and elegant garlic/chilli/extra-virgin olive oil pasta, and much more.
• Get to know chianti and montepulciano wines, the regions of which were just up and down the road respectively.
• Go to a cooking class. We made a delicious sweet capsicum soup, crostinis, ravioli, ragu, tiramisu, fagioli pyramids - OK the kids made those, and they were far more handsome than any pasta we adults made - and dine out in the garden.
• Discover the untold horrors of the Tuscan insect population. Some of these guys were the size of dragonflies (or Pterodactyl dinosaurs) but bit like mosquitos. None of us emerged unscathed, and Tracey got a nasty dose of the shakes from being bitten too much (thankfully that passed within a day).
• Head out to Saint Gimignano and sample some world-record gelato (flavours including gorgonzola, cinamon and lavender/blackberry)
• Duck down the road and check of the wonderfully whimsical Bomarzo monster park, containing giant mythological inspired stone carvings from around 1550.



More Bomarzo



Sleeping beauty, dog and a foodivore

• Enjoy two excellent and reasonably priced meals in Arezzo at a place called Il Cantuccio (the tripe was such a highlight that we ordered it again on our second visit).

Giants fighting, while Andrew photographs

Monster park sculpture

Tracey saves herself from becoming lunch

16th century whimsy at Bomarzo

Contemplation in Bomarzo

A quick trip to Roma for lunch

Being doubtful about the quality of the dinner options that awaited us near Rome's Ciampino airport (justifiably so, as it transpired), our intrepid heroes took a sudden decision to duck into Rome for lunch. We'd had a memorable lunch back in 2005 at an osteria that, for us, had epitomised a local eatery so we decided to return. Great idea, huh? Well there were a couple of minor drawbacks....

Andrew had a loose recollection of where we were heading. Now that's not so bad in a small place, but central Rome is another matter altogether. We pointed Pierrot at the supposed street, and then had to actually get there. Rome traffic is probably not as terrifying as we'd feared, but it's not far from it. As well as being thick and slow, it's also full of drivers who are sick of waiting and likely to try out some radical manoeuver - and, naturally, without bothering to indicate first. Having acquired some new wrinkles and grey hairs, but happily no dings or dints, we reached our destination. Unfortunately it didn't look a lot like we remembered: unsurprising really, because it wasn't the right place. We were an unknown number of blocks away, in an indeterminate direction. Undeterred we strode forth, rapidly considering and discarding various streets that all looked a bit similar, but just weren't it. We eventually found our goal (aptly enough, called Miraggio), though without remembering the way back. Oops.

Tracey, contended in Miraggio

Things hadn't changed a bit since our previous visit. The red&white checked tablecloths were still there, several generations of a Roman family were dining at a long table and so on. The gorgonzola gnocchi was every bit as good (and heavy) as we remembered, but sadly the trippa alla Romana (Roman tripe) wasn't available. Luckily it was paiata season, and this was excellent (it's veal intestines tied up looking like umbilical cords and stewed in a lovely tomato sauce - much better than it sounds).

Somewhat slowed-down by lunch, we embarked on the Quest to Find Pierrot. We'd parked right near a big church, which in most cities would be a pretty useful landmark....but not Rome, where it feels like there are more large churches than there are bakeries in Paris. Having increasingly-frantically roamed the streets and getting close to out parking meter deadline we finally approached someone with a map....he was lost, and didn't speak English though he did speak French...and we pieced together our location. Turns out we were about 100m from Pierrot (Tracey's proposed a homing beacon for cars - great idea). All we had to do then was get out of Rome!

Amalfi

Pompeii: thankfully, it's a plast

Having already introduced you to Tipoli (Trivoli), we headed further south towards the Amalfi coastline, passing through Crapoli (Napoli). You may think us harsh in our judgment but Napoli by far wins the award for the dirtiest most trash filled city we have been through on our travels. The streets are lined with feet deep rubbish along the side of the road with packs of stray dogs sifting through, broken down cars and shanty like makeshift building structures. We were pleased to be able to drive straight on through. We do admit not to have visited the old centre, we're sure there must be some redeeming features for which people choose to visit or live in this sprawling city. As we leave Napoli and cross over the hills to the Amalfi coastline the narrow roads slowing wind down along the steep hillsides and cliffs. We had heard the reputation about these stretches of road, that you must have nerves of steel to make it through without traumatic stress or vehicular damage, not an understatement. Which side of the road to drive on appears mostly optional and parking on a blind corner, no problem at all. The Italians must love challenges and obstacles and we now understand why they must have developed Grappa..

The wonderfully well-preserved large theatre at Pompeii

Arriving at our hotel we were pleased we had reserved garage parking, many of the cars parked on the roadside looked a little worse for wear, minus side mirrors etc. As mentioned the hills are steep in this area and our hotel was no exception and as luck would have it, the elevator from the street was out of order, thankfully we were only at the equivalent of the fourth floor and we only had to take up one of our 30kg+ bags ;-). Like all hills and stairs there's usually a good view at the top and this time was no exception. We had a corner room overlooking the Mediterranean sea and Amalfi coastline.

The Forum, Pompei

Pompeii

We could have spent the whole time marvelling at the beauty of the view and rubbing shoulders in town with the well-heeled (there's plenty of money around this part of the world). However, Pompeii is just over the hills in a suburb of Crapoli and we couldn't pass up the chance. Finding it was a challenge in its own right: an entirely unwanted and unenjoyable detour through a shabby, scabrous, filthy part of town and we finally got there. This being a foremost attraction, masses of others had had the same idea and were also marvelling. However it's a pretty big area (maybe a 20 minute walk across the diameter of the site if all you were to do was walk, which you just can't and shouldn't because it's all so absorbing). Not sure how to best sum up the impression of the place: the former, doomed inhabitants don't dominate one's consciousness as we might have thought though the story is sheeted home when you see the plaster casts of bodies' impressions left within mounds of volcanic ash. It's hard to imagine an entire town of this size, with all the people that includes, being wiped out.

Pompeii fresco. You'd look concerned, too, if you had no body.

Sadly we had less time there than it deserved (we only had about three hours, but in reality you could spend a whole day - just don't expect to find any decent food, so bring your own). Also sadly, we didn't make it to the Crapoli museum wherein many of the most beautiful frescoes, statues, pottery etc are kept (sorry Kev, I know you said we should but it just didn't happen).

Boating off Amalfi

Foodivore in Amalfi

Andrew, Amalfi - but no anchor

Back in Amalfi that afternoon we decided to hire a boat for a few hours and check out the view from the water (less traffic and therefore more tranquil). We found one at 60euros + petrol for three hours (that's pretty much the going rate) and off we hared. What a shame that the propeller malfunctioned after about five minutes....by which time we were well offshore. We crawled back to town at slower than walking pace (no oars on this boat!) and swapped for the hirer's own boat, the engine and propeller of which at least worked. Do you know the theory that mechanics have the dodgiest cars? Well the same may well be true of boat hirers. The perspex windshields rattled out of their fittings when any swell appeared and a quick dip in the Med was called for in an attempt to retrieve the anchor which, we were astounded to discover, hadn't been tied to the boat. Who doesn't tie the anchor to their boat?? How do they think an anchor works in the first place - throwing a piece of metal overboard doesn't seem likely to help you remain in one place. Anyway we suspect collusion between him and the local chandlery, particularly when we forked out an extra 40 euros for a replacement (and that he told us the anchor was but two days old, the previous hirers having lost it's predecessor). The view from the water was, thankfully, gorgeous and we have no regrets whatsoever. Be warned though!.

Amalfi sunset

Food was mixed, though in all fairness the service was the issue far more than the food. In a country that respects mama and nonna so much, it's amazing that waiting staff are so oblivious and rude to females. The place we dined on the first night served good food, but the staff didn't deign to acknowledge Tracey's existence - thereby undermining the good efforts of the kitchen (rather good red mullet, a seafood bisque that had far more seafood than bisque ;) and the best risotto thusfar in Italy). Far better was lunch in Positano, where we were both treated respectfully and treated to some excellent pasta (puttanesca & the house sauce that was similar to puttanesca, as well as a classic vitello con limone - veal with lemon). Much cheaper and a cheerful, family-run place. Worth a return!

Tracey at Amalfi

Having been treated to a dramatic thunderstorm on our final night the morning drive up the insane roads (Tracey's turn - as always first thing in the morning) was made even more challenging by wet roads, mist and intermittent cloud. Lingering wasn't an option though, as an unexpected trip loomed....first to Rome, and then to Lyon.

Final score in the big Bureaucracy Showdown: Tracey&Andrew 2 d French Bureaucracy 1

After five and a half months here and following innumerable fruitless questions, wasted visits and ambiguous letters we have only three weeks left until we head home. Strange then that we should only now be the proud, exhausted possessors of valid visas to stay in France for the last 23 weeks and another three.

Foodivores outside the OFII in Grenoble, with valid visas

Keen followers of this titanic battle (us versus the monolithic French bureaucracy) will recall when the score reached 1-1. We won't lay out the worst of the details right now: we're just relieved.

Ripatransone: unpublicised beauty on the Adriatic coast

Sunset from Relais del Colle - great spot for an aperitivo

Sated by the slightly ragged grandeur of Venezia we headed to a spot near Ripatransone, which is just off the Adriatic coast. On the way we got a look at a typical Italian summer beach scene which, to those used to long clean empty stretches of sand, looked alien: a veritable clogged maze of umbrellas, sunlounges...tucked behind paid admission entrances. Gulp - wonder what Amalfi will be like.
Those thoughts were forgotten when our larger-than-life host, Luciano, greeted us enthusiastically at the Relais del Colle. Peppering his speech with contented utterances of "perfe-ecto", he got us settled right in by suggesting a rest, a dip in the pool, with dinner to be served sometime after 8.30. We willfully added an aperitivo under the pergola, perched high on a hilltop, watching the sun's marvelous brazen orb sink behind the surrounding hills and turning to silhouette the numerous hilltop towns. Once full darkness fell these emerged again as twinkling fairy tale clusters of lights in the distance. Belissimo! The Marche area is mostly undiscovered by non-Italian tourists and has the look of what we imagine the Tuscan countryside to be (only a week until we'll be there to compare).
We were caught unprepared for the extent of dinner - well we thought we were hungry and ready, but the pace was challenging. The Relais serves its own organic/biodynamic produce, and it's delicious. Warm, sweet tomatos on bruschetta, dipped through little pools of sweet and fruity olive oil. Succulent cantaloup with prosciutto. A large platter of homemade tagliattelle alla Ascallana (with a sweet tomato & tuna sauce)....we shouldn't have finished that one, because no sooner we had than another (only half the size - ie enough for two or three people) appeared because we clearly needed more. Learning from our error we left some of the second helping, and were then confronted with the main course of roasted pork with a delicious saute of zuchinis. Fearfully, we tried to do it justice but barely managed half. Sweets were then upon us: a trio of sorbets that were pure in flavour and a relief (we'd heard talk of cake, which by this stage sounded scary). They also make their own organic wines wine flowed readily.  Luciano then serenaded us with some lovely piano, before thrusting a guitar at Andrew and telling him it was his turn. It's been a lot of years....but the couple nearby didn't seem too critical. Luciano then whipped out a tray of digestivos: grappas infused with a variety of flavours (basil, sage, elderflower, peach and several others). All homemade with the farm's produce, and all delicious. After sampling a little of them we resolutely called time and waddled upstairs to bed.

Tracey and friend - Ascoli Percena

Palazzo at Ascoli Perceno

Reflections at Hadrian's Villa

We were beguiled by Luciano's offers of breakfast (including of grappa and/or limoncello, both of which we declined) but kept it light and headed off to Ascoli Piceno. This is the major town in the area, tucked away from the coast a little and ornamented by a charming old town centre. In the prevailing European tradition the heart has been largely pedestrianised which adds to the charm. The town was readying itself for an evening festival (possibly the major annual festival, or maybe just in honour of the local soccer club - it's hard to tell when you don't speak the lingo). We called our fathers for Fathers' Day (hi Eddie & Don) and then strolled around listening to marching bands warming up, observing numerous sets of wedding photos an generally liking the white stone buildings and streets. In one of the central piazzas we discovered lunch, which turned out to be a good-value stomach-stretching excursion through many typical local dishes. For a four to five course meal, with wine and coffee included, 26 euros was a bargain (note - your euro buys you far more food and wine in Italy than in France).

Luciano was happy to arrange a "light" (the term is relative) dinner of bruschetta + olivey nibbles, pasta and a mousse-like fresh peach dessert and more of their homemade wines - followed by a little nip of limoncello of course ;-) also homemade.

Leaving is always hard, and this was no exception. We hadn't found the chance to use the Turkish bath, have a massage, use their Wii or any other of the many diversions available. Relais del Colle goes down as one we highly recommend, and intend to return to.

Glory faded before the physique

En route from Ripatransone we found time to pass through Tipoli (sorry, Tivoli, but it's a dump) to check our Hadrian's Villa. Some excellent Roman ruins warmed us up for a future excursion to Pompei.....

Return to Venezia

Back on Ponte Accademia, five years later

Tracey on the campo

Innumerable writers have grasped for the perfect simile for Venezia, and we're prepared to add our own: a magnificent main course from the best of restaurants, with a third already eaten. The obvious glory is still there, but impeccably presented it no longer is. You just want to see it at its prime to see if your imagination matches the reality.

A lovely afternoon cruise down the Grand Canal

Those that believe that it's a great big tourist trap and that you can't find good food in Venice just don't know where to go (admittedly, it's hard to know where to start and there's a lot of food/fuel that we're not interested in). We were lucky enough to find a dazzling range of options fit for such a jewel. From the tapas-style food at our local osteria to the sumptuous multiple courses dining at the campo outside our accommodation. Dining at Cantina Canaletto in the cave (wine cellar) the walls of vino from which any can be had by the glass, the charm of the violinist playing in the room next door, the ridiculously-sized wine glasses (over a litre in size), the beautiful bottle of Montepulciano. A 7 course lunch at Osteria di San Marina that sits under the balcony of our room - including suckling pig, smoked-at-the-table tuna, millefoglie of dark chocolate and mousse. The local unpretentious osteria for some of the best-ever meatballs, cold roasted fennel, sardines. Stopping in for an espresso and fresh warm tart of mushrooms or anchovies for breakfast.

Being our second visit we felt liberated from the must-do list of Basilica San Marco, Doge's Palace and so on. Instead we were able to relish in the simpler delights:

• Strolling the quiet, local (tourist-free) corners of Dursoduro and near the Arsenal
• Checking out the famous fish & produce market at Rialto
• Heading offshore to Murano to observe the creation of glass "items" (the only word suitable to encompass everything from the elegant to the downright hideously tacky).
• The charm of a private gondola cruise with a cold bubbling glass of Prosecco, with the gondolier occasionally providing interesting insights on Venice, its canals and the people who have lived there, and other time providing a quiet suitably atmospheric song/humming.
• The yellow-rose light fading on the various campaniles near sunset
• Our decadent marble and velvet filled room (Hint - a good room in Venezia is worth it. You do so much walking and it can be really warm, so a handy comfortable retreat for a couple of hours is the perfect tonic to be able to get out again in the evening to see even more.)
• Observing a ridiculous giant cruiser that was large enough for a full-size cruising yacht to be strapped to the side for occasional jaunts (we'd seen motor launches in similar spots in Barcelona, but this took the prize). Perhaps the Venice Film Festival had attracted some stupidly expensive guests?
• The reprieve from traffic and cyclists - not to be overestimated in Europe. The ease of canal transportation was equal to the Paris metro, which for us is high praise.

  

  The entree platter is as big as the glass??

  

  Lovely bouquet

  

  Tracey outside our favorite osteria

  

  Somebody's lunch just waiting to happen- Venice fish market

  

  Scenes from Rialto

  

  It looks like this so often - charming

  

  Andrew on the balcony, checking out the campo