30 September 2010

Cesky Krumlov

"Old Tower", Cesky Krumlov
Cesky Krumlov (or "Crusty", as it's affectionately known to us) is a charming, well-preserved medieval village sheltered in the embrace of a sweeping river arc. Cobbled streets and lanes wend their ways past facades decked out in elaborate stencils and painting.

It's overseen by an impressive old castle featuring an ornate tower that underwent beautification in the Renaissance to transform functional Gothic architecture into an almost-Eastern ornament, a moat containing bears (poor things - look like they deserve more space) and, far worse, on some of the floors (rugs) inside the castle. For a dynasty that was named after bears and claims them as their emblem they haven't really worked out humaneness. The castle also features a fabulous labyrinth like cellar space underneath which was hosting some pretty bizarre art.
  • A "pheasant feast" at the tavern of Two Marys (Tracey suggests that based on the portion sizes, it was actually only One Mary that had overindulged). Great views out over the town's inner river and old church as the full moon rose. Pheasant was a little dry, but a feast it was. Glad we don't feast every day, or they'd be calling it the tavern of Four Foodivores :)
  • Local music in the main square at the commencement of the Wenceslas Celebrations (preceded by speeches that despite being translated into two other languages - German and Slovenian - we didn't understand a word of).
  • Mead - an unexpected and yummy local drop. cinnamon at the Two Marys; almond at Barbakan that was like liquid marzipan
  • Generous (aka insane) serves of hearty simple food - pork knee, goulash, a local specialty featuring too much meat and three times as much stodge in various forms, grilled perch-pike
  • Gorgeous deciduous leaf colour - rather like being in an Autumnal Park - as the splendid sunshine shone down (well, after the early morning mist had been burned off).
  • Visiting the Marionette Museum. Fabulous faces, expressions, styles, costumes and so on. Apparently the Czechs have used marionettes as home entertainment for years (well, at least until TV became available).
  • and....,
    View of the village from the Old Tower

    of course....watching the (first, drawn) 2010 Grand Final over the internet at 6.30am, visiting friends back home at Slabathon via the miracle of videocall, slumping back in relieved shock at the drawn result....while Tracey sipped her 0% lemon soft drink because of the Czech 0.00% driving laws (we were off to Praha within 20 minutes of the game ending).
Serious toys...the marionette museum
4th Quarter, Grand Final #1, Cesky Krumlov (note tension!)

    One of the local residents

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