Foodivore: Chateau Showdown: Versailles vs Loire Valley

The 7th Great Lady of Chenonceau?

Mucking around in the Hall of Mirrors

The queue starts here, and finishes just above
Tracey's head (and this was a short queue)

Cheverny - but for inheritance laws, all this could be yours

Chenonceau, sans sheeple

Amboise (lousy food omitted)

Having returned from our summer escape to northern cooler climes, we embarked upon a serious chateau-hopping few days. We’d been to the western Loire Valley earlier (see here), but this time we were ready for the really heavy-hitters.
Versailles: it’s got so much speaking in it’s favour…history, the zenith of French absolute monarchy, the Hall of Mirrors and so on. Stacked up against this however are a few unspoken truths: it’s overrun with hordes of sheeple, you’re required to queue roughly 900 times in the course of a visit, the exterior is rather bland and homogenised, the interior didn’t in the main survive the Revolution, and so on. We did manage a pleasant row in small rowboat amongst the ducks and swans on the main central canal, and strolling the grounds is pleasant – but no more so than many other parks. If it weren’t for the fountains (which on this occasion weren’t turned on, making us grateful for the earlier visit) the grounds would be nice, but unexceptional. All in all, the anticipation far exceeded the actual event.
Chambord: best roofline by a mile and the largest chateau in the Loire. Despite also hosting large flocks of sheeple, Chambord disguises them in a number of ways – a market, large grounds with good views of the magnificent main building, and a very pleasant terasse bar in which you can sit peaceably to take in the view. Large trees add to the ambience, which comes highly recommended. We were not welcomed in the same manner of Charles V during his visit in 1539. He was greeted by nymphets in transparent veils tossing wildflowers in his path…
Chenonceau: smaller than we realized, but very graceful in design. The hordes were here in large numbers as well, but the main gallery over the river was relatively clear and permitted a spot of quieter contemplation. The kitchens (tucked inside the main supporting arches) are quite cool and full of many bits of original equipment, sometimes of perplexing purpose. Additionally, for those who are into 17th- and 18th-century art, there are some big names hanging on the walls. It’s also worth noting that the presence of donkeys was a big plus (as keen readers will already know, everything can be improved with a donkey). Also highly commended.
Cheverny: for Tintin nerds, this is a must-see. Used by Herge as the model for Marlinspike, this more mansion-like chateau is still occupied by descendants of the original owners (Henri Hurault), and chock-a-block full of fancy interior furnishings and decorations. Suits of armour, used to humorous effect in various Tintin books, are recognisable as is the main staircase. Admittedly tastes differ, but you’d have to concede that some of it is flat-out crass. However, the grounds are pleasant and there’s a (cheesy) Tintin exhibition. Not bad overall, but you get the feeling that you’re being gouged for cash to permit the owners to continue with their 17-century lifestyle. This wasn’t the original chateau that stood on these grounds. When the first wife of Henri was found to be having an affair with a page, she was given the option of a sword through the heart or drinking poison…she chose the less messy option. Following her death Henri tore down the old chateau to rebuild for his new wife, hopefully she lived a little longer. Also notable about this place are the hounds, who languish in a very unappealing concrete enclosure (with a big V shaved into their flank to denote ownership) while awaiting the hunts that the old-money owners perpetuate. From the sounds of their baying, we suspect some of the roving children of disregarding the signs which ask you not to tease them.
Amboise: not a bad fortified castle overlooking the Loire. Just don’t eat the food in the town. Not a great Foodivore moment (who chills both cheese and the plates on which it’s served??...the barbarians). A particular highlight of the town was the spacious old tunnel that goes under the chateau and currently houses wine tasting of the regional drops. Handily the tasting included a couple of glasses, so our picnic experiences will no longer feature plastic cups.
Chaumont-sur-Loire: another impressive pile overlooking the Loire but, in this company, just not in the same league. When Diane de Poitiers was evicted from Chenonceau after Henri II died, his widow threw her out (understandable given that she was his mistress), she was given this chateau instead, and apparently she was less than pleased about this. Helpfully for us, it’s not far upstream from Vouvray and its wonderful wines. Perhaps if these wines had been around back then Diane may have been happier about her new accommodation.

And the winner? Naturally it depends on what you want to see, but Chambord wins this showdown.

Nice spot for a row

But what, we hear, about the food? Streets ahead of the western Loire Valley is the answer. A very enjoyable (and reasonably priced) meal at Le Bouchon Lyonnais in Blois gave us a preview of our next destination – tete de veau (calf’s head), sapeur (breaded tripe), sabodet (a sausage made from pigskin and inner bits) and so on. If that wasn’t good enough though, by happy accident we chanced a look at a menu at the Auberge du Centre in Chitenay (a tiny out of the way village where only locals appear to dine) and immediately booked for Sunday lunch. Nine varied courses later (magret d’oie – goose breast; carpaccio of rabbit) we were happy to declare: the winner is…Chitenay.